Retablo in Santo Domingo

• Starting Point: Grañon
• Ending Point: Tosantos
• Daily distance: 12.80 miles (20.6 km)
• Total distance:  151.66 miles (244.07 km)

Today’s hike was uninspiring. It was a gravel trail that followed closely along a busy highway. The one bonus was that the wind from passing tractor trailers helped cool us. 
A Camino angel did help us today. Laura and I began the hike in the dark again in hopes of avoiding the afternoon sun. And again, we missed a yellow arrow  in the dark! Luckily, we heard a woman’s voice call out “Señoras”. When we turned around, she pointed to the arrow we missed. 

Our albergue in Tosantos was wonderful. The owners were very sweet and helpful, there was a lovely courtyard and the dinner was delicious. I had cream of zucchini soup and stewed pork jaw. The meat was so tender it melted in your mouth. During our dinner, we visited with Jimmy, a woman who grew up in Connecticut but has lived  in Spain for 40 years. She shared the story of how she met her Spanish husband and a little bit about Spain’s retirement system. 

After dinner, I was returning my wine glass to the bar when I happened upon Catherine, the older French woman we had dinner with a couple of nights ago. Catherine told me she was about to hike up to the cliffs above the town to see a small chapel dedicated to Mary.  She asked if I wanted to come with her but added “I must warn you that I’m a little bit drunk”. Well, by this time I had had a few glasses of wine myself, but an adventure to see a shrine to Mary in the cliffs could not be turned down. I grabbed Laura because I knew she would love this too and up we climbed to the cliff. There was a small chapel built into the mountain and inside was a beautiful image of “Virgen De la Peña”, Our Lady of the Cliffs, and a small retablo in her honor. There is a town legend that says a 8th century statue of the child Jesus was hidden in the cave to protect it when the Muslims invaded. We sat in the few pews inside and paid our respects. 

Pics to follow when wifi signal is stronger…

• Beginning Point: Azofra 
• Ending Point: Grañon
• Daily distance: 13.86 miles (22.3 km)
• Total distance: 138.86 miles (223.47 km)

Our hike today takes us down gravel country roads to a kind of modern ghost town on the edges of a golf course. Row upon row of townhouses sit eerily empty, evidence of Spain’s housing bubble. We stop at the golf course for a cup of cafe con leche and to rest our feet. 

Our next stop is Santo Domingo de Calzada where an interesting legend is set. A pilgrim family (father, mother and son) from Germany were walking the Camino when they decided to rest at an inn in Santo Domingo de Calzada. The inn keeper’s daughter fell in love with the son and tried to seduce him. The son rejected her advances as he had his mind set on going all the way to Santiago. The girl was angered and hid some silver in his sack. After the family left, the girl claimed the son stole from the inn and when the authorities caught up with the family, the poor son was found with the silver on him and hanged. The distraught parents continued on to Santiago. On their return trip home, the parents again stopped at Santo Dominigo to visit their son’s body, which was left hanging as a warning to other thieves. Upon seeing their son, he called down saying that he was still alive, claiming that St Dominic had held up his body the entire time. The parents set off to see the magistrate to proclaim this demonstrated their son’s innocence. The parents happened upon the magistrate while he was in the middle of dinner,  the main course of which was chicken. In disbelief the magistrate exclaimed that their son was no more alive than the chicken on his plate, whereupon the chicken came alive, feathers and all!

We stopped in the Cathedral and the attached museum. In the Cathedral is a Gothic chicken run with what are said to be two descendants of chicken from the legend – the  Lazarus of chickens, so to speak. Above the chicken run is a piece of the gallows. The church and museum also contained other beautiful works of religious art. On our way out of town, we spot a bakery and try one of the local specialties, ahorcaditos, which means “little hanged man”. 

We then made our way into Ganon. Sitting outside the local cafe are many of our friends we’ve met along the way. We enjoy some wine and almonds while catching up with them. The albergue tonight is on a donation basis. It is in the bell tower of the church and we sleep on mats in a upper loft.

We attend Mass and afterwards the priest invited pilgrims into a small museum behind the altar and tells us a little history about all the items. Most fascinating are books that are over 1400 years old made from calf skin and sculpted arms which are purported to contain bone fragments from 3 of Jesus’s disciplines. 
After Mass, we have a communal meal in our albergue. I sit in wonder as I listen to Spanish, English, French and Italian conversations going on all around me.  Following dinner, we were invited to a walk into a secret passageway that connected into the upper back area of the church sanctuary. The retablo is lit in the darkened sanctuary and it is magnificent. As the retablo shines back at us, we are invited into a moment of silence to reflect on our journey. We then retire to bed (or rather, mat!)

More pics to follow when wifi is better…



• Starting Point: Navarrete 
• Ending Point: Azofra
• Daily distance: 14.17 miles (22.8 km)
• Total distance: 125.00 miles (201.17 km)

Today was a day of grapes. We walked through miles and miles of beautiful vineyards. There was a cool breeze most of the day and it was mainly a flat easy hike. 




My feet are feeling much better. I’ve developed a kind of callus on my right heel. Laura read that it is a good thing. It’s protective and I should let it be. 
My bag feels like a part of my body now. Over the past week, I’ve gradually let go of items I haven’t needed or used. I left behind a battery storage bank, my mini-keyboard, hair conditioner, small poetry book I finished, pen & small notepad, Spanish phrase book, plastic spork and traded out the extra pair of insoles I packed. My clothes are also becoming looser. I imagine all together I’m carting around at least 4-5 pounds less than what I started with. My body, especially my knees, are quite happy about that.  I now consider weight in anything I pick up along the way. A snack? Hmmmm…do I really want to tote that for miles? 

Around noon we passed through Najera and had a bite to eat. I selected an amazing goat cheese tapas with jamón (ham in Spain, but more like our prosciutto) and jam on it. It was delicious. The goat cheese here is top notch. 

Upon exiting Najera, we climb a small pass and when we came through on the other side it felt as though we have been transported into the desert. The rocks were red, the plant life was scrubby and it was hot. And then the flies descended on us. We named it “Valley of the Flies”. We flicked our ponytails back and forth to keep them away from our heads. The flies followed us all the way into Azofra. 

Azofra is a very small town with one albergue. It is a gem because all the rooms are double private rooms for only $10! It also had a small pool to soak your feet in.

We had dinner in a local restaurant with Cam (our dinner companion from the previous night) and Catherine from France. Catherine is a Camino veteran and recommends we stop at Ganon the next day. She indicated there is a special parochial albergue there where you sleep on mats in the bell tower of the church. We are intrigued and decide to adjust our plans to check it out. 



• Starting Point: Viana
• Ending Point: Navarrete
• Daily distance: 13.55 miles (21.8 km)
• Total distance: 110.83 miles (178.36 km)

What a difference a day can make! A cold front must have passed through the night. We woke up to cool temperatures. And after a good night of rest, Laura feels much better. 

The hike today takes us through a mid-size city named Logroño. We have a few errands to run (pharmacy to get some cold meds and cell phone store to add minutes to the phone), so we decide to leave super early again, in the dark. And we briefly get lost again. Laura and I have a good laugh at our ineptitude at navigating in the dark. 

Logroño was a beautiful city. They have a lovely park and everyone was so friendly, pointing us in the right direction and heartedly wishing us a “Buen Camino”.  The park had a conservation area with swans, fish, ducks and other birds I didn’t recognize. One had white markings and a very long tail. A Spanish gentleman was hand  feeding a squirrel. I asked him if I could take a picture. He said yes and then offered to let me feed the squirrel. I took off my backpack and softly approached. He handed me a walnut and I bent down next to him and held out my hand. The squirrel came right up to me and took the walnut from my fingers. It made my heart happy. By the way, Spanish squirrels are way cuter than the Florida variety. They have long fuzzy ears. 

Laura and I stopped to have an ice cream. We relaxed by the lake and enjoyed the beautiful day for a few minutes. As we continued on our way we passed a chain link fence along the highway that was covered in handmade crosses. It appears they were made with sticks found along the path. And it went on for at least a quarter mile. 

As we came into Naverette, we were passed by two pilgrims on horses. That would be quite a way to do the Camino. Instead of sore feet though you would have a sore bum! 

We had a special treat waiting for us in Naverette. We sprung a few extra euros and got a private double room. It was heaven to have some privacy for the night. 

After getting settled into our room, we had dinner with a pilgrim named Cam from Toronto, Canada. This is his second Camino. He read up on the history in Spain and shared some very interesting stories about the region. 

Mass that evening was a unique experience for me. The town has a special affinity for Mary, and though it seems that all of Spain does, their devotion in Naverette was even more evident. We participated in a novena prayer to Mary, which is a focused repeated prayer usually done for nine days. Countless Hail Marys were repeated. The priest then called us pilgrims up for a blessing – this time from Mary.  

A very memorable day, indeed!



• Starting Point: Los Arcos
• Ending Point: Ventosa
• Daily distance: 11.43 miles (18.4 km)
• Total distance: 97.28 miles (156.56 km)

Note: Internet connectivity has been awful. I was trying to wait for better connectivity to post my blog with pictures but I give up. I’ll post pictures when I can. 

Today was a tough day! The forecast called for high temperatures and sunny skies. We wake early in hopes of beating the heat. But with no cloud cover and no shade on the trail, things heated up quickly. 

To top it off, all the rest of the hikers on the Camino had the same idea, so it’s rather crowded on the trail. I decide it’s time to break out the headphones. The playlist is a mix of my favorites I made for the trip…U2, Dave Matthews, Mumford & Sons, Willie Nelson, Hip Abduction, SOJA, Rising Appalachia. The music helps transport me to my own place, losing myself in the mountain scenery and forgetting the crowd around me. 

But soon enough, the heat gets to me. My sweaty hands slip on my hiking poles and I pull out my sun gloves. My backpack rubs uncomfortably against my wet back. My body already hurts and the sun adds insult to injury. 

And poor Laura woke up with a sore throat. A couple of our bunk mates were coughing all night and it seems Laura caught it. So on top of hiking in the heat, she’s fighting a cold. She has been a real trooper!

During the hike, we stopped by a small church where a statue of Mary is said to keep returning even after being relocated many times. I really wanted to check out this mysterious statue. Unfortunately, it was closed. 

We also encountered an artist who makes rock formations for us hikers to enjoy. Cold water and snacks were also offered. 

A sign appears telling us it’s only 3.8 kilometers (about 2.5 miles) to our destination. I was so excited. I knew I could knock out 2.5 miles. When we rounded the top of the trail after what felt like at least 3 miles, my heart dropped.  I looked down at the city and it had to be another 2 miles. I’m learning that the distance signs on the Camino are wide estimates and not to place my faith in them. 

We had originally planned to travel to the next town, an additional 5 miles. However, we learned there was a wine festival going on with a very festive crowd that would make sleep difficult. It worked out well that we changed our plans, because I’m not sure I could have dragged my body 5 more miles. We are learning our bodies hit their limit between 13-15 miles per day. We built in some extra days in our itinerary, so we shouldn’t have any trouble making it to Santiago during our timeframe. And with some luck, we will walk to Finisterre as well. I’m trying to let go of my expectations about the destination and just enjoy each day for what it is. 

Our albergue tonight is named Izor. I’m in a room with 9 bunk beds. A communal dinner of salad, pasta and small ham steaks is served.  I am bunking next to an older Swedish couple. The husband is quite interested in our American politics. I change the subject quickly. 

Personal space continues to be elusive. Today a lady introduced herself to me as she was applying underarm deodorant and another guy came up to chat with me as I was taking a Q-Tip to my ear. The toilets are next to the showers and sinks;  unseemly bathroom noises serenade you as you brush your teeth.  I’m no prude; I just wasn’t quite prepared for this level of closeness. I knew I’d be in communal living…I guess I just didn’t think through all the intimate details of what that entailed.  It’s definitely an education. I’m gradually learning to be more relaxed around large groups of people and to just go with the flow. As I lay down to sleep tonight, a symphony of snorers and one sleep talker lead me to dreamland. 



• Starting Point: Villatuerta
• Ending Point: Los Arcos
• Daily distance: 15.72 miles (25.3 km)
• Total distance: 85.85 miles  (138.16 km)

A long day is ahead of us so we wake up at o’dark thirty. The town is shrouded in darkness as we hike out. Our little flashlights illuminate the way as we transition onto the dirt trail. Unfortunately, while navigating around a mud puddle, I missed the yellow arrow and led us astray. When we ended up in an olive tree grove next to a little church, I knew something wasn’t right. Laura and I backtracked and found the missed arrow. 

The trail today wove us through olive tree groves and vineyards. A cloudy haze kept the sun off of us most of the day. 

We went through a few small towns and saw some beautiful architecture.

A wine fountain also crossed our path. The plaque next to the fountain said that we should toast to happiness. We didn’t think it wise to fill our water bottles with wine, so we filled the caps of our bottles and made our toast. 

The small encouragements on the trail mean so much. A couple played an accordion and violin at the bottom of one ascent. The music was an inspiration as we made our way up the hill.

We also ran into some friends we hadn’t seen since the day we hiked into Pamplona.  We thought we lagged behind them due to taking a couple of  short days. But it seems everyone did the same over the last few days in different cities. Many have been dealing with blisters. So far, Laura and I have been blister free. I credit this blessing to Laura’s research on Injinji toe socks. I believe they are the godsend that have kept us blister free. Our main complaint thus far has been achy knees. 

The last 3 miles of the hike were really hard. The clouds were gone and the sun beat down on us. Every part of me was aching again…feet, knees, hips, shoulders. I tried to focus on the beauty of the landscape. The wind was blowing and I imagined the rustling leaves were applause. White butterflies floated all around me in one section urging me on. The hum of the insects were cheers to continue putting one foot in front of the other.

We finally made it and checked into our albergue, Casa de Abuela (Grandma’s House). We are in a room with six bunk beds. We get settled in, shower, laundry, dinner. Dinner was a more typical pilgrim’s meal of fried pork, French fries, salad, bread, wine (as compared to last nights amazing dinner). It was not very satisfying, but it filled the belly. 

After dinner, we rested for a while and then went to Mass. The church, Iglesia de Santa Maria, is dedicated to Mary and has a special retablo honoring her. A bell rang, the lights on the retablo turned on and the shine from the gold lit up the room. It was breathtaking. 

Afterwards, it was off to bed. We are beginning to fall into the routine and pace of life on the Camino. 

• Starting Point: Puente la Reina
• Ending Point: Villatuerta
• Daily distance: 11.25 miles (18.1km)
• Total distance: 70.12 miles (112.85 km)

Thunder and lightening awoke us from our slumber. A cold front was moving through the area. We pulled on our rain gear and grabbed some breakfast before heading out. 

The rain was fairly steady for the next couple of hours with one heavy downpour. Our gear worked very well and I was very impressed with my waterproof shoes. My feet stayed completely dry. 

The rain brought out the snails. They littered the trail and we had to step gingerly to avoid crushing them. 

As I relaxed into the hike, I started to actually enjoy and embrace the rain. The rumble of thunder around us and the fragrant smell of the earth captured my attention. This rainy day had its own beauty too. 

We made reservations at an albergue named La Casa Magica. And it lived up to its name. There was a swimming pool, hammocks, epsom salt tubs for your feet and no bunk beds! 

Dinner was amazing. The chief served white asparagus with roasted red peppers, vegetable paella and a custard dessert. The paella had plums, raisins, cloves of garlic, peppers and cauliflower mixed in it. More red wine topped it off. It felt like fine dining, rather than a pilgrims meal. 

Tomorrow is our longest hike yet at 15 miles. So, it’s off to bed for some rest.