The Way to Land's End



• Starting Point: Los Arcos
• Ending Point: Ventosa
• Daily distance: 11.43 miles (18.4 km)
• Total distance: 97.28 miles (156.56 km)

Note: Internet connectivity has been awful. I was trying to wait for better connectivity to post my blog with pictures but I give up. I’ll post pictures when I can. 

Today was a tough day! The forecast called for high temperatures and sunny skies. We wake early in hopes of beating the heat. But with no cloud cover and no shade on the trail, things heated up quickly. 

To top it off, all the rest of the hikers on the Camino had the same idea, so it’s rather crowded on the trail. I decide it’s time to break out the headphones. The playlist is a mix of my favorites I made for the trip…U2, Dave Matthews, Mumford & Sons, Willie Nelson, Hip Abduction, SOJA, Rising Appalachia. The music helps transport me to my own place, losing myself in the mountain scenery and forgetting the crowd around me. 

But soon enough, the heat gets to me. My sweaty hands slip on my hiking poles and I pull out my sun gloves. My backpack rubs uncomfortably against my wet back. My body already hurts and the sun adds insult to injury. 

And poor Laura woke up with a sore throat. A couple of our bunk mates were coughing all night and it seems Laura caught it. So on top of hiking in the heat, she’s fighting a cold. She has been a real trooper!

During the hike, we stopped by a small church where a statue of Mary is said to keep returning even after being relocated many times. I really wanted to check out this mysterious statue. Unfortunately, it was closed. 

We also encountered an artist who makes rock formations for us hikers to enjoy. Cold water and snacks were also offered. 

A sign appears telling us it’s only 3.8 kilometers (about 2.5 miles) to our destination. I was so excited. I knew I could knock out 2.5 miles. When we rounded the top of the trail after what felt like at least 3 miles, my heart dropped.  I looked down at the city and it had to be another 2 miles. I’m learning that the distance signs on the Camino are wide estimates and not to place my faith in them. 

We had originally planned to travel to the next town, an additional 5 miles. However, we learned there was a wine festival going on with a very festive crowd that would make sleep difficult. It worked out well that we changed our plans, because I’m not sure I could have dragged my body 5 more miles. We are learning our bodies hit their limit between 13-15 miles per day. We built in some extra days in our itinerary, so we shouldn’t have any trouble making it to Santiago during our timeframe. And with some luck, we will walk to Finisterre as well. I’m trying to let go of my expectations about the destination and just enjoy each day for what it is. 

Our albergue tonight is named Izor. I’m in a room with 9 bunk beds. A communal dinner of salad, pasta and small ham steaks is served.  I am bunking next to an older Swedish couple. The husband is quite interested in our American politics. I change the subject quickly. 

Personal space continues to be elusive. Today a lady introduced herself to me as she was applying underarm deodorant and another guy came up to chat with me as I was taking a Q-Tip to my ear. The toilets are next to the showers and sinks;  unseemly bathroom noises serenade you as you brush your teeth.  I’m no prude; I just wasn’t quite prepared for this level of closeness. I knew I’d be in communal living…I guess I just didn’t think through all the intimate details of what that entailed.  It’s definitely an education. I’m gradually learning to be more relaxed around large groups of people and to just go with the flow. As I lay down to sleep tonight, a symphony of snorers and one sleep talker lead me to dreamland.