- Beginning Point: Sahagún
- Ending Point: El Burgo Ranero
- Daily distance: 11.25 miles (18.1km)
- Total distance: 262.76 miles (422.87 km)
Embarking in the cold and darkness was probably not the best decision. But, Laura and I had had it with the city of Sahagún and we were eager to get out of town. Our albergue didn’t offer breakfast and no cafes were open, so we hiked our first 6 miles on an empty stomach. My hiking sandals didn’t offer much comfort from the cold, even with socks on, and my toes were soon numb. In the darkness, I stumble several times and curse under my breath. Usually getting outside lifts my spirits, but it’s dark and I can’t see a damn thing except the few feet my light illuminates. I’m afraid my mood has not improved.
Dawn is beginning to break. The mountains are growing closer. Within the next week, we will begin climbing our next range. We stop for breakfast in the first little village with see and continue on.
El Burgo Ranero is a tiny town. Arguments echo inside the albergue as we enter. The staff running it are in their own foul moods. Though I don’t understand all their checking in instructions, I understand their tone and body language. They seemed irritated to start with and our language barrier accentuates it.
I lay in my bed and stew awhile. I’m frustrated that I can’t seem to get out of this mood. Laura mentions that the courtyard outside is very nice, so I go to check it out. I sit in a reclining chair and watch the Spanish songbirds flit around. Their songs, their markings, their movements are new to me, but the peace in watching them very familiar. I keep a bird feeder back home and enjoy watching the red cardinals and blue jays from my back porch. With a cup of coffee and surrounded by my collection of succulents, my comfy spot on the outdoor sofa is my happy place in Florida. For a few moments, I can feel the knots relax inside me. This feels like a little piece of home.
Laura and I head to dinner at a cafe we saw a flyer for. The waiter greets us with a huge smile and a joke. His movements are comical and he makes silly faces. It’s just the light hearted company I needed. Again, I feel the knots soften. And then, best of all, the waiter delivered a huge plate of fresh roasted vegetables.
The woman who had checked us into the albergue earlier was very short and curt. She would barely make eye contact and she actually shouted at an Asian pilgrim who didn’t understand her. We had left our laundry with her and after checking in a couple of times it was still wet. Apparently, the dryer or “secadora” was broken. She used an online translator on her phone to type in a Spanish phrase that returned in English: “I am leaving. I will come back soon and take off your clothes”. Though the translation was comical, I got the gist. She would be back soon with my clothes. She returned later with a huge smile on her face, said she was sorry for the problems and handed me our still warm, dry clothes. Again, I felt the knots loosen as the realization of her kindness set in. She must have taken our clothes and dried them at her home.
And as the day ended, one final bit of joy made its way to me. I received a message letting me know that my brother and his wife delivered their little boy today. Welcome to the world, Cole! You are beautiful and your Aunt Shell can’t wait to meet you soon.
The Way to Land's End 