The Way to Land's End

• Starting Point: Villavante
• Ending Point: Astorga
• Daily distance: 13.61 miles (21.9 km)
• Total distance: 302.84 miles (487.37 km)

As we set out in the morning, we see the mountains looming. We will begin climbing the foothills today. 

Our first stop is a charming medieval town called Hospital de Órbigo. A long Gothic bridge greets us upon entering the town. To its side is the site of a legendary jousting competition. In 1434, a knight named Don Suero was rejected by his lady love. In his heartbreak, he locked an iron collar around his neck and vowed not to take it off until he defeated 300 knights in jousting competitions. Knights from all over the land came to Hospital to participate and Don Suero completed his vow. He took off the iron collar and made a pilgrimage to Santiago. The bridge is named El Paso Honroso, “the Honorable Pass”, based on this story. 

After Hospital, the rolling hills began.  We make multiple ascents and decents. My blister starts stinging and I limp a bit to relieve the pain. At one point, there was a 6 mile section with no stops. I was hurting and just about ready to take a break in the grass when a most wonderful place appeared – La Casa de Dioses, “The House of Gods”. One of the most joyful parts of the Camino is when you encounter those who feel called to care for pilgrims. It appeared this gentleman had a house on one side and he made a hangout for us pilgrims on the other. He provided fruit, bread, water, juice and, best of all, seats! 

As we reached the top of the hill with a cross, the city of Astorga could be seen below. Astorga is a beautiful town and one of my favorites so far on the trail. It has pleasant squares and a Main Street with lots of shops and restaurants. Oh, and it sure does help that it’s known for its chocolate. There seemed to be a chocolate shop on ever corner. 

Today is a national holiday in Spain. We sit outside in the main plaza and enjoy watching all the families celebrating. The restaurant is serving a special festival menu and we have  iron grilled lamb. The clock tower in town is animated. At each hour and half hour, the boy and girl figures move as they gong the bell. 

Unfortunately, because of the national holiday, the Episcopal Palace we wanted to see and the pharmacy are closed. We decide to adjust our plans and stay in Astorga until midday tomorrow and only hike a half day. 

After dinner, we head back to our albergue where they offer evening prayers and a pilgrims blessing. It is in a small room containing a modest alter. Only six of us pilgrims attend – two are Dutch, two are French and then Laura and I. The priest who led the prayers assigned us each sections of the readings, some in English, some in French. (I don’t believe they had a Dutch translation available).  It was touching to read aloud in my language and then to hear the French readings. I do believe French is one of the most beautiful sounding languages. 

As I began getting ready for bed, I had some intense nausea and stomach pains. The only thing I ate differently than Laura were some anchovies in my salad at dinner. This is the second time I had anchovies on this trip and the second time I had gastric issues. A quick google search confirms it is the likely cause. Duly noted! No more anchovies for me. I go to sleep hoping to feel better in the morning.