- Starting Point: Astorga
- Ending Point: Murias de Rechivaldo
- Daily distance: 3.17 miles (5.1 km)
- Total distance: 306.01 miles (492.47 km)
Our decision to stay in Astorga an extra half day was well made. The Bishop’s Palace was unique and well worth the visit. The palace was started, though not finished, by Gaudì. The bishop for whom it was intended died and construction stopped. The exterior was whimsical and the interior was enchanting. Many stained glass windows, beautiful arches, artwork, sculptures and nooks invited you to imagine another time. The most captivating room was the chapel, where a white marble Mary sat underneath a brilliant array of colored glass. The basement of the palace held a museum with ancient Roman relics.
Laura had read that Astorga had excellent hot chocolate. So next, we stop inside a bakery and ask the owner if she had hot chocolate. She replied in the affirmative and we order two. Delivered to the table are two huge cups of melted chocolate. This was definitely a case of “lost in translation”.
Afterwards, we headed to the pharmacy to solicit advice on my blister. The pharmacist indicated that my blister needs to breath and recommended I remove the tape, apply iodine to dry the skin and then cover it with a breathable guaze bandage. I purchased the supplies and then we hiked out of Astorga.
We walk only a few miles to the tiny town of Murias, which is one of about 40 villages in the region known for their Maragato culture. This group is rumored to be descended from an ancient tribe of red-headed Iberians who served as muleteers between the coast and interior Spain. Laura and I indulge in one of their traditional meals known as “Cocido Maragato”, in which the meat is served first, followed by the greens and then lastly soup. To begin, we are served an appetizer of pig ear. Although the texture is odd, it was surprisingly rather tasty. The first course is a huge pot of different pork pieces – ribs, ham, sausage, a croquette filled with a gravy. It was delicious. Next, we are served cabbage with chickpeas. A noodle soup followed. Lastly, we were given a light custard dessert. The owner of the restaurant was so gracious and friendly. After dinner, he brought grappa to the table and we finished dinner with shots. In fact, throughout this small village, all the people were so lovely and sweet. They handed out encouragement for our Camino, patted me of the back and gave me extra treats when ordering drinks in the cafe.
Before going to bed this evening, I treated my feet with the iodine and covered them with the breathable gauze. Fingers crossed my foot is better tomorrow…
The Way to Land's End 