The Way to Land's End

• Beginning Point: Molinaseca 
• Ending Point: Cacabelos
• Daily distance: 14.98 miles (24.1 km)
• Total distance: 346.02 miles (556.87 km)

The smell of smoke wafted into the open window of our albergue. We awake to news that Galicia, the next region we are entering, is ablaze with wild fires. The air outside is thick with smoke that has drifted north.  My mind races with thoughts about how this will impact our hike, how to prepare, what work arounds are possible, etc… I finally pause long enough to realize this is out of my control, to stop flailing about for solutions, to wait and just go with the flow. Rain is expected tomorrow and there are two days until we enter the area. So, I put the fire out of my mind. And as it wanders back into my thoughts throughout the day, I shoo it way. 

Our hike today routes us through Ponferrada, a historic town with a Templar castle built in the 13th century. We stop to take a tour and meet Sergio, a fellow pilgrim from Brazil. He joins us as we wander the impressive castle. We climb up into the towers and overlook the smoke filled city. Sergio tells us about his daughter who just got married. And once again, I learn about another pilgrim’s love for Game of Thrones. The castle is a perfect backdrop to discuss our favorite GOT kings and queens and plots to claim the throne. Who knew an HBO show would be the great uniter among such varied cultures?!?

We continue on into the Bierzo region, a landscape full of vineyards and trees. The sun casts an eerie orange glow about us. The smoke hanging in the air obscures our view  and a hint of mystery fills the air. 

When we arrive at last in Cacabelos, the albergue we selected is quite curious. The rooms are arranged in a horseshoe shape around the outside of a church. The rooms (or as we called them, cells) are just large enough to hold two twin beds with a tiny space between them. It is odd, but adequate to sleep in. 

Laura and I search out some food and happen upon a bar serving pizza. But best of all, the seats are small soft, cozy sofas. One of the things I miss most from home is my couch. I know that may sound odd but I really enjoy snuggling up on my comfy couch. Here I’m either walking, sitting in a hard restaurant chair or laying in bed. The comforts of a cozy chair or sofa are one of those little things you don’t fully appreciate until it is gone. This trip has definitely made me more grateful for those small everyday pleasures we all take for granted.