The Way to Land's End

• Starting Point: Sarria
• Ending Point: Portamarin
• Daily distance: 13.67 miles (22.0 km)
• Total distance: 412.32 miles (663.57 km)

As we leave Sarria, it is worth noting that it is a very popular starting point for many pilgrims. The city is just over 100 kilometers from Santiago, the minimum number of kilometers required by the church to earn a Compostela (the certificate of pilgrimage). Right away, I notice more traffic on the trail. You can easily tell who the new pilgrims are – they have a spring in their step and clean shoes! 

At first I feel a bit piqued about the increased traffic. I knew to expect it, but wasn’t quite prepared for the large walking groups (some come in tour buses). You set out at a good pace and then run smack into a group of 15 people dawdling and blocking the trail. I decide to make the best of it. I plug in my headphones, set my music to some good vibes and enjoy the scenery. And what magnificent scenery today!

The breeze was blowing, the temperature was perfect, the music uplifting, my spirit soared. Eventually it seemed all the hikers spread out and I didn’t feel so crowded anymore.  I thought through a lot of things up on the mountainside today. I left some things up there that I didn’t need to carry around anymore. It ended up being one of the best hiking days of the trip.

The trail weaved through more tiny hamlets and then into Portomarin. 

Portomarin currently sits high above the river but long ago it was built right on the river. Ruins of the city and old bridge can be seen from the new bridge. As we enter the city, there was a split in the path with arrows indicating you could go either way. We randomly selected the left path and wind up hiking down what appeared to be a steep dried up waterfall. Then, after crossing the bridge we are met with a gigantic staircase. Needless to say, our legs were worn out by the time we made it to our albergue. 

Laura and I attended Mass at Iglesia de San Juan. The church was originally in the old town down by the river. It was taken apart stone by stone, numbered and reassembled in the new town. It looked more like a castle than a church. The inside was very simple with little embellishment. 

My sense of time has become distorted since beginning this trip. It feels like I’ve been gone from home for a year. The excitement is building as we get closer to our destination.  We are in the home stretch!