• Beginning Point: O Cebreiro
• Ending Point: Triacastela
• Daily distance: 12.86 miles (20.7 km)
• Total distance: 382.99 miles (616.37 km)

Before heading out of O Cebreiro this morning, Laura and I take a peek inside the church. Legend has it that the Holy Grail was hidden in this church. 

The ascents today over the pass were tough, but the views beautiful. 

On our descent down, we pass through many small hamlets. Dairy farming is a mainstay here. As we were sitting in a small cafe eating chestnut pie, Laura and I look outside the window to see an elderly woman herding about 4 cows through the middle of the street with a cane. Several dogs assisted her in keeping the cows in check.  The trail today is littered with cow dung. I start out with a keen eye and gingerly step around it, but eventually it’s impossible to tell where the mud ends and the poop begins. So, I give up and trample through. 

Chestnuts are another feature of the trail. Thousands upon thousands of these furry green balls line the trail. 

Upon entering Triacastela, we check into our albergue and receive a delightful surprise. Sanyin, the Korean woman I chatted with on Day 1 in Orisson, is my bunkmate. Seeing a pilgrim you started with it a joyful thing. There is a unique camaraderie and understanding. 

As I was getting ready for bed, I massaged my sore feet and noticed an unusual mark on my sole. I’m not sure if it’s a bruise or internal bleeding from too much pressure. It doesn’t hurt but does give me some concern. I’ll have to keep my eye on it. 

• Starting Point: Trabedelo
• Ending Point: O Cebreiro
• Daily distance: 12.24 miles (19.7 km)
• Total distance: 370.13 miles (595.67 km)

The clouds are low and mist wets our heads as we begin our walk today. It’s going to be another rainy walk today. But with it, the landscape becomes greener and greener. 

The hike today takes us into the region of Spain known as Galicia. The area was settled by an ancient Celtic tribe and many elements of Celtic life remain. It is also known for its frequent rain showers and lush vegetation. 

We have several very steep ascents up into Galicia. My legs were burning from the effort. As we entered into our first Galician forest, the emerald colors of the canopy struck me. It felt as though I had entered into Mother Nature’s sanctuary. 

Up and up we climbed, into the Celtic town of O Cebreiro. I felt as though I was on the set of Braveheart!  The traditional Celtic homes with thatched roofs and cobble stones buildings were quite a sight to see. 

Laura and I decided on a double room. It was a small, but very cozy room. Most interesting were the stairs to get up to our room. Laura had fun demonstrating how scary they were to climb!

After the tough climb today, my body is ready for rest. Another big climbing day is in store for us tomorrow as we take on the final mountain pass of our journey. 

• Beginning Point: Cacabelos
• Ending Point: Trabadelo
• Daily distance: 11.87 miles (19.1 km)
• Total distance: 357.89 miles (575.97 km)

The pattering of rain is a welcome sound.  With it comes the hope the fires ahead will be extinguished. Upon setting out on the trail, I immediately notice a change. The smoke has lifted and revealed a beautiful landscape. The fragrant aroma of earth has replaced the charred smell of yesterday. 

We walk in a steady rain most of the day, following rolling dirt roads through vineyards. The run off from the rain washes out part of the road at one juncture and we have to jump our way from rock to rock to pass through. 

The trail takes us through small towns nestled in the mountains. We pass through Villafranca, which has a castle (privately held). 

Afterwards, the trail follows along a old highway the remainder of the day. We overnight in Trabadelo and decide a long day in the rain deserves a treat. We splurge on a private double room at our albergue. 

Dinner is a disappointment. I ordered a fish and salad. The fish is flat, thin and pan fried with the head and bones still intact. I honestly don’t mind the head and bones, there just was barely any meat. The salad consisted of two slices of tomato with two slices of onion on top. This is definitely not enough nutrition after walking nearly 12 miles. I go in search of something of more substance and finally settle on spaghetti, which is listed on a board outside our albergue.  I’m told by the stern owner that I have to wait until 6:30pm to have it, even though I just saw her son eating the same meal. At the beginning of this trip, I would have fumed in frustration at the lack of customer service. But somewhere along the Way, I have learned acceptance and say, “Thank you. I will return then”.  And I let it go. 

• Beginning Point: Molinaseca 
• Ending Point: Cacabelos
• Daily distance: 14.98 miles (24.1 km)
• Total distance: 346.02 miles (556.87 km)

The smell of smoke wafted into the open window of our albergue. We awake to news that Galicia, the next region we are entering, is ablaze with wild fires. The air outside is thick with smoke that has drifted north.  My mind races with thoughts about how this will impact our hike, how to prepare, what work arounds are possible, etc… I finally pause long enough to realize this is out of my control, to stop flailing about for solutions, to wait and just go with the flow. Rain is expected tomorrow and there are two days until we enter the area. So, I put the fire out of my mind. And as it wanders back into my thoughts throughout the day, I shoo it way. 

Our hike today routes us through Ponferrada, a historic town with a Templar castle built in the 13th century. We stop to take a tour and meet Sergio, a fellow pilgrim from Brazil. He joins us as we wander the impressive castle. We climb up into the towers and overlook the smoke filled city. Sergio tells us about his daughter who just got married. And once again, I learn about another pilgrim’s love for Game of Thrones. The castle is a perfect backdrop to discuss our favorite GOT kings and queens and plots to claim the throne. Who knew an HBO show would be the great uniter among such varied cultures?!?

We continue on into the Bierzo region, a landscape full of vineyards and trees. The sun casts an eerie orange glow about us. The smoke hanging in the air obscures our view  and a hint of mystery fills the air. 

When we arrive at last in Cacabelos, the albergue we selected is quite curious. The rooms are arranged in a horseshoe shape around the outside of a church. The rooms (or as we called them, cells) are just large enough to hold two twin beds with a tiny space between them. It is odd, but adequate to sleep in. 

Laura and I search out some food and happen upon a bar serving pizza. But best of all, the seats are small soft, cozy sofas. One of the things I miss most from home is my couch. I know that may sound odd but I really enjoy snuggling up on my comfy couch. Here I’m either walking, sitting in a hard restaurant chair or laying in bed. The comforts of a cozy chair or sofa are one of those little things you don’t fully appreciate until it is gone. This trip has definitely made me more grateful for those small everyday pleasures we all take for granted. 

• Beginning Point: Rabanal
• Ending Point: Molinaseca
• Daily distance: 15.47 miles (24.9 km)
• Total distance: 331.05 miles (532.77 km)

Our hike today was gorgeous. Up we rose, climbing to the high point of the Camino Frances. The Cruz Ferro, “Iron Cross”, is a tall wooden post crowned with an iron cross. It is said to be an ancient monument, first erected by the Celts, then dedicated to Mercury by the Romans  and later topped by the cross and renamed a Christian site by the 9th century hermit Guacelmo. Pilgrims for centuries have brought a stone from their home, representing their burdens or prayers and left it at the Iron Cross. 

I too have brought a stone from home. It’s one that a friend gave me that has been on my meditation altar at home. It is red and I chose it because it looks like a human heart. Somewhere along my journey, probably from the many times my backpack hit the ground, my heart rock split in two. I think about how apropo that is as I do feel my heart too has opened on this trip. I left my stone at this ancient monument, along with a prayer of gratitude for all the lessons my heart has learned along the Way. 

As we continue on the trail, we pass by the teeny tiny town of Manjarín, population of 1. A man named Tomas lives there and claims to be a modern day Templar, the last of his order. 

A light breeze and cloud cover cooled us most of the day. The golden grass swayed gently and bird calls floated in the air. I stared at the mountains surrounding me in awe. Contemplating their size and age puts my tiny human life in perspective. 

But as I have learned very well by now, those magnificent mountaintop views are followed by knee aching descents. The grade down was sharp and the terrain rough. 

Laura and I had dinner next to the tiny river in Molinaseca.  Afterwards, we rested our weary legs and went to bed early. 







• Starting Point: Murias de Rechivaldo
• Ending Point: Rabanal 
• Daily distance: 9.57 miles (15.4 km)
• Total distance: 315.58 (507.87 km)




The hike into Rabanal was beautiful. We began climbing up into the Cantabrian mountain range. The grade was slight and made for an easy hike. We passed through a couple of small villages on our way up. 

Rabanal was a picturesque mountain village. We checked into Albergue Gualcemo which is run by the UK Cofraternity of St James. They offered an afternoon tea and had the most superb clothes washing station we have encountered thus far. There was a centrifuge to spin out our wet laundry. Let me tell you, hand washing your clothes is hard work!

Our main reason for stopping in Rabanal was to see the vespers service where the local monks perform the Gregorian chant. Unfortunately, the monks left town the day before. However, we did attend a lovely mass in the small chapel. 

It has been a while since we have seen any of the pilgrims we began with in St Jean. I’m afraid we may have fallen behind them. And although we have merged into a new cohort of pilgrims, I sure do miss those faces from the first days and wonder how they all are faring. 

Today we met a father and his 13 year old son from Germany. It is their first day on the Camino. The father completed the Camino back in 2013 and his son begged to do it too. It is now the boy’s fall break from school and his father agreed to the walk from Astorga to Santiago. It is heart warming to see the two together. The son sat outside at the table this evening writing  in his journal and you can see the excitement in his eyes. He talked to me about the United States and seemed disappointed that I wasn’t from Ohio. Apparently, his favorite YouTube stars are from Ohio!

And finally, an update of my blisters: the pharmacist was right on. A full day of letting the skin  breath and my blisters are dry and barely noticeable. I walked all day with no bandage or tape on.  I had no pain or irritation. Apparently, sometimes the best thing to do is nothing. Our bodies are amazing and know how to heal themselves! 





• Starting Point: Astorga
• Ending Point: Murias de Rechivaldo
• Daily distance: 3.17 miles (5.1 km)
• Total distance: 306.01 miles (492.47 km)

Our decision to stay in Astorga an extra half day was well made. The Bishop’s Palace was unique and well worth the visit. The palace was started, though not finished, by Gaudì. The bishop for whom it was intended died and construction stopped. The exterior was whimsical and the interior was enchanting. Many stained glass windows, beautiful arches, artwork, sculptures and nooks invited you to imagine another time. The most captivating room was the chapel, where a white marble Mary sat underneath a brilliant array of colored glass. The basement of the palace held a museum with ancient Roman relics. 

 

Laura had read that Astorga had excellent hot chocolate. So next, we stop inside a bakery and ask the owner if she had hot chocolate. She replied in the affirmative and we order two. Delivered to the table are two huge cups of melted chocolate. This was definitely a case of “lost in translation”. 

Afterwards, we headed to the pharmacy to solicit advice on my blister. The pharmacist indicated that my blister needs to breath and recommended I remove the tape, apply iodine to dry the skin and then cover it with a breathable guaze bandage. I purchased the supplies and then we hiked out of Astorga. 

We walk only a few miles to the tiny town of Murias, which is one of about 40 villages in the region known for their Maragato culture. This group is rumored to be descended from an ancient tribe of red-headed Iberians who served as muleteers between the coast and interior Spain. Laura and I indulge in one of their traditional meals known as “Cocido Maragato”, in which the meat is served first, followed by the greens and then lastly soup.  To begin, we are served an appetizer of pig ear. Although the texture is odd, it was surprisingly rather tasty. The first course is a huge pot of different pork pieces – ribs, ham, sausage, a croquette filled with a gravy. It was delicious. Next, we are served cabbage with chickpeas. A noodle soup followed. Lastly, we were given a light custard dessert. The owner of the restaurant was so gracious and friendly. After dinner, he brought grappa to the table and we finished dinner with shots. In fact, throughout this small village, all the people were so lovely and sweet. They handed out encouragement for our Camino, patted me of the back and gave me extra treats when ordering drinks in the cafe. 

Before going to bed this evening, I treated my feet with the iodine and covered them with the breathable gauze. Fingers crossed my foot is better tomorrow…

• Starting Point: Villavante
• Ending Point: Astorga
• Daily distance: 13.61 miles (21.9 km)
• Total distance: 302.84 miles (487.37 km)

As we set out in the morning, we see the mountains looming. We will begin climbing the foothills today. 

Our first stop is a charming medieval town called Hospital de Órbigo. A long Gothic bridge greets us upon entering the town. To its side is the site of a legendary jousting competition. In 1434, a knight named Don Suero was rejected by his lady love. In his heartbreak, he locked an iron collar around his neck and vowed not to take it off until he defeated 300 knights in jousting competitions. Knights from all over the land came to Hospital to participate and Don Suero completed his vow. He took off the iron collar and made a pilgrimage to Santiago. The bridge is named El Paso Honroso, “the Honorable Pass”, based on this story. 

After Hospital, the rolling hills began.  We make multiple ascents and decents. My blister starts stinging and I limp a bit to relieve the pain. At one point, there was a 6 mile section with no stops. I was hurting and just about ready to take a break in the grass when a most wonderful place appeared – La Casa de Dioses, “The House of Gods”. One of the most joyful parts of the Camino is when you encounter those who feel called to care for pilgrims. It appeared this gentleman had a house on one side and he made a hangout for us pilgrims on the other. He provided fruit, bread, water, juice and, best of all, seats! 

As we reached the top of the hill with a cross, the city of Astorga could be seen below. Astorga is a beautiful town and one of my favorites so far on the trail. It has pleasant squares and a Main Street with lots of shops and restaurants. Oh, and it sure does help that it’s known for its chocolate. There seemed to be a chocolate shop on ever corner. 

Today is a national holiday in Spain. We sit outside in the main plaza and enjoy watching all the families celebrating. The restaurant is serving a special festival menu and we have  iron grilled lamb. The clock tower in town is animated. At each hour and half hour, the boy and girl figures move as they gong the bell. 

Unfortunately, because of the national holiday, the Episcopal Palace we wanted to see and the pharmacy are closed. We decide to adjust our plans and stay in Astorga until midday tomorrow and only hike a half day. 

After dinner, we head back to our albergue where they offer evening prayers and a pilgrims blessing. It is in a small room containing a modest alter. Only six of us pilgrims attend – two are Dutch, two are French and then Laura and I. The priest who led the prayers assigned us each sections of the readings, some in English, some in French. (I don’t believe they had a Dutch translation available).  It was touching to read aloud in my language and then to hear the French readings. I do believe French is one of the most beautiful sounding languages. 

As I began getting ready for bed, I had some intense nausea and stomach pains. The only thing I ate differently than Laura were some anchovies in my salad at dinner. This is the second time I had anchovies on this trip and the second time I had gastric issues. A quick google search confirms it is the likely cause. Duly noted! No more anchovies for me. I go to sleep hoping to feel better in the morning. 



• Starting Point: Virgen del Camino (took bus from León)
• Ending Point: Villavante
• Daily distance: 14.54 miles (23.4 km)
• Total distance: 289.23 miles (465.47 km)

In the interest of time and to avoid walking along the interstate, we take a bus from León to the outer edge of its suburbs in Virgen del Camino (4.78 miles). 

As soon as we begin walking, I feel the funk I’ve been in for the last few days lift. I don’t know whether it was the rest day in Leòn, being out in nature or just time, but I feel good. My spirits lift as we walk through a beautiful field full of birds. I see a flock of birds in flight tilt in unison and the underside of their bellies are a waving sea of deep blue. Another bird, black with white wings, dashes from bush to bush. 

While walking Laura and I have a great conversation about how this pilgrimage is an allegory of life. When we first began this journey, there was the excitement of newness and the unknown. It is quite similar to the teenage and young adult years when you are just starting out in life and all the possibilities and opportunities drive you. Then, middle age or the middle of the journey sets upon you.  You become accustomed to the daily routine, repetitive chores and life becomes drudgery. You wonder why the heck am I doing this and what’s the point. You become disillusioned with people and irritable. I have definitely been battling with those feelings over the past week. So what’s next? What’s in store for the last third of my journey and will it also be a reflection of life?

As I mentioned earlier, the word on the trail is the first third of the journey is about the body and the second third is about the mind. The last third of the trail is suppose to be about the spirit. Now, that can mean a lot of different things to different people. Some think of religious life, whether that be Jesus, Buddha or Muhammad. Some think of nature and the Source.  Some think of art and beauty. That beauty could be in song, paint, photography, writing or dance. And then some think of service. Those folks find meaning in helping others through either their vocation or volunteer service. But what it really comes down to is passion. What will drive you, motivate you into your last days? This is different than being motivated by a paycheck or other exterior rewards such as prestige, social status or success. This is a passion that comes from deep within. And this is what I think I should meditate on during the last part of my walk. 

Over the past 3 days, I have hiked in my sandals to allow my blister to heal. Today is my first day back in my boots and after a few miles, I start to feel the area on my heel become irritated again. When we arrive in Villavante I check out my heel and a blister is starting to form again. There is no pharmacy in this town but at the next town, I decide I need to check in to see what they can do for me. 

Dinner tonight is back to the typical pilgrim menu of thin pan fried meat and French fries. And then we get settled into our bunk beds in a room full of about 15 others. The gentleman sleeping on the bottom bunk next to me is from South Korea and he is playing Loretta Lynn songs. As “Stand by Your Man” crooned in the air, I snuggled into my sleeping bag and thought about my Bryan and how much I missed him. And while I still miss home, tonight I feel oddly comfortable being back on the trail and I’m excited to knock out the last part of this journey. 

There was a lot of walking during our rest day in León. We left our backpacks in our room as we set off to explore the city. So you could say in that respect, it was a rest. We began at the Cathedral again, sitting outside on the benches and just staring at its stately beauty. I am infatuated. The large rose window hypothesizes me. 

Next, we enter the attached museum and chapel. No photographs were allowed. The museum contained a wide array of religious art and also an assortment of practical items from ages past. There were Roman coins, knives, swords, pots and bottles. The chapel contained  a sculpture called “Virgen del Camino”, reminiscent of The Pieta by Michaelango. It depicts Mary holding Jesus after the Crucifixion. However, in this version Jesus is face down. As I entered the chapel, I could feel a shift in the atmosphere. The smell of incense lingered in the air and low chandeliers cast a subdued glow on the simple stone arches of the room. A hush filled the air and all eyes were draw to the mother holding her only child in her arms in the center of the alter. It was quite moving. 

Our search for a superb meal was successful at last in León. The first course was a mixed salad with roasted vegetables and squid. The second course was cod with garlic sauce (a speciality of the region), kale and mushrooms. Dessert was a torrija (a kind of French toast with a creamy center) topped with toffee sauce. 

After lunch, we decided to hop aboard a train that takes visitors around the city. Among the sights was the original Roman wall that surrounded the city. We were also given the history of the town and shown it’s major plazas, fountains and statues. 

Towards the end of the day, I realized that although I had enjoyed León, I was itching to get back on the trail. As we say on the Camino, “Ultreia” – which loosely translates to “onward”!