The Way to Land's End

• Starting Point: Sarria
• Ending Point: Portamarin
• Daily distance: 13.67 miles (22.0 km)
• Total distance: 412.32 miles (663.57 km)

As we leave Sarria, it is worth noting that it is a very popular starting point for many pilgrims. The city is just over 100 kilometers from Santiago, the minimum number of kilometers required by the church to earn a Compostela (the certificate of pilgrimage). Right away, I notice more traffic on the trail. You can easily tell who the new pilgrims are – they have a spring in their step and clean shoes! 

At first I feel a bit piqued about the increased traffic. I knew to expect it, but wasn’t quite prepared for the large walking groups (some come in tour buses). You set out at a good pace and then run smack into a group of 15 people dawdling and blocking the trail. I decide to make the best of it. I plug in my headphones, set my music to some good vibes and enjoy the scenery. And what magnificent scenery today!

The breeze was blowing, the temperature was perfect, the music uplifting, my spirit soared. Eventually it seemed all the hikers spread out and I didn’t feel so crowded anymore.  I thought through a lot of things up on the mountainside today. I left some things up there that I didn’t need to carry around anymore. It ended up being one of the best hiking days of the trip.

The trail weaved through more tiny hamlets and then into Portomarin. 

Portomarin currently sits high above the river but long ago it was built right on the river. Ruins of the city and old bridge can be seen from the new bridge. As we enter the city, there was a split in the path with arrows indicating you could go either way. We randomly selected the left path and wind up hiking down what appeared to be a steep dried up waterfall. Then, after crossing the bridge we are met with a gigantic staircase. Needless to say, our legs were worn out by the time we made it to our albergue. 

Laura and I attended Mass at Iglesia de San Juan. The church was originally in the old town down by the river. It was taken apart stone by stone, numbered and reassembled in the new town. It looked more like a castle than a church. The inside was very simple with little embellishment. 

My sense of time has become distorted since beginning this trip. It feels like I’ve been gone from home for a year. The excitement is building as we get closer to our destination.  We are in the home stretch!

• Beginning Point: Triacastela
• Ending Point: Sarria
• Daily distance: 15.66 miles (25.2 km)
• Total distance: 398.65 miles (641.57 km)

It was difficult to get motivated this morning. My body is fatigued and my energy level despairingly low. The last two days of hard hiking have drained me. Thirty three total days of hiking with a few nominal “rest days”, in which we walked all day sight seeing, have taken their toll. It’s hard to find my groove this morning. I shuffle along, leaning heavily on my poles and dragging my reluctant feet slowly behind. 

But the beautiful landscape eventually revives me. I lose myself in the beauty and tranquility of the forest and the quaint hamlets which are interwoven throughout. I soon forget about my aches and pains. 

We briefly encountered some charred earth from the recent wildfires. 

The hike took us through the town of Samos, known for its monastery. 

Laura and I brought a sandwich along on the hike today as there was a long stretch without services. We stopped alongside the trail and ate our ham and tomato sanwiches on an old stone wall. A couple of cows milled about in a pasture below us. 

In Sarria, we checked into a great albergue. It had a nice shower, a beautiful courtyard and sitting room with a fireplace. And sweetest of all, a cute ragmuffin of a dog named Donna. I sure do miss my dogs back at home and enjoyed getting the chance for some puppy love.  After I found Donna’s spot (you know all dogs have that one spot that they love scratched), she was my buddy. 

During my shower today, I noticed that the shampoo I bought two days ago just wasn’t foaming up or working through my hair well. I start to suspect that maybe it’s not shampoo and look at the bottle more closely afterwards. Sure enough, the bottle says “piel”, the Spanish word for skin. The Spanish word for hair is “pelo”, so the mix up is understandable.  I had been washing my hair the last two days with lotion! I can’t stop laughing at yet another lost in translation snafu!

As we get ready to settle down for the night, the owner of the albergue invites us to the fire for shared conversation and shots of a liquor. I note how the mantle has icons of Jesus, Mary and a witch and it further endears this region to me. Due to its Celtic influence, this area has an affection for witches and they adorn their spaces with “brujas”. I love when people can hold two differing ideas, in this case Christian and pagan, and find value, honor and respect for each. 

• Beginning Point: O Cebreiro
• Ending Point: Triacastela
• Daily distance: 12.86 miles (20.7 km)
• Total distance: 382.99 miles (616.37 km)

Before heading out of O Cebreiro this morning, Laura and I take a peek inside the church. Legend has it that the Holy Grail was hidden in this church. 

The ascents today over the pass were tough, but the views beautiful. 

On our descent down, we pass through many small hamlets. Dairy farming is a mainstay here. As we were sitting in a small cafe eating chestnut pie, Laura and I look outside the window to see an elderly woman herding about 4 cows through the middle of the street with a cane. Several dogs assisted her in keeping the cows in check.  The trail today is littered with cow dung. I start out with a keen eye and gingerly step around it, but eventually it’s impossible to tell where the mud ends and the poop begins. So, I give up and trample through. 

Chestnuts are another feature of the trail. Thousands upon thousands of these furry green balls line the trail. 

Upon entering Triacastela, we check into our albergue and receive a delightful surprise. Sanyin, the Korean woman I chatted with on Day 1 in Orisson, is my bunkmate. Seeing a pilgrim you started with it a joyful thing. There is a unique camaraderie and understanding. 

As I was getting ready for bed, I massaged my sore feet and noticed an unusual mark on my sole. I’m not sure if it’s a bruise or internal bleeding from too much pressure. It doesn’t hurt but does give me some concern. I’ll have to keep my eye on it. 

• Starting Point: Trabedelo
• Ending Point: O Cebreiro
• Daily distance: 12.24 miles (19.7 km)
• Total distance: 370.13 miles (595.67 km)

The clouds are low and mist wets our heads as we begin our walk today. It’s going to be another rainy walk today. But with it, the landscape becomes greener and greener. 

The hike today takes us into the region of Spain known as Galicia. The area was settled by an ancient Celtic tribe and many elements of Celtic life remain. It is also known for its frequent rain showers and lush vegetation. 

We have several very steep ascents up into Galicia. My legs were burning from the effort. As we entered into our first Galician forest, the emerald colors of the canopy struck me. It felt as though I had entered into Mother Nature’s sanctuary. 

Up and up we climbed, into the Celtic town of O Cebreiro. I felt as though I was on the set of Braveheart!  The traditional Celtic homes with thatched roofs and cobble stones buildings were quite a sight to see. 

Laura and I decided on a double room. It was a small, but very cozy room. Most interesting were the stairs to get up to our room. Laura had fun demonstrating how scary they were to climb!

After the tough climb today, my body is ready for rest. Another big climbing day is in store for us tomorrow as we take on the final mountain pass of our journey. 

• Beginning Point: Cacabelos
• Ending Point: Trabadelo
• Daily distance: 11.87 miles (19.1 km)
• Total distance: 357.89 miles (575.97 km)

The pattering of rain is a welcome sound.  With it comes the hope the fires ahead will be extinguished. Upon setting out on the trail, I immediately notice a change. The smoke has lifted and revealed a beautiful landscape. The fragrant aroma of earth has replaced the charred smell of yesterday. 

We walk in a steady rain most of the day, following rolling dirt roads through vineyards. The run off from the rain washes out part of the road at one juncture and we have to jump our way from rock to rock to pass through. 

The trail takes us through small towns nestled in the mountains. We pass through Villafranca, which has a castle (privately held). 

Afterwards, the trail follows along a old highway the remainder of the day. We overnight in Trabadelo and decide a long day in the rain deserves a treat. We splurge on a private double room at our albergue. 

Dinner is a disappointment. I ordered a fish and salad. The fish is flat, thin and pan fried with the head and bones still intact. I honestly don’t mind the head and bones, there just was barely any meat. The salad consisted of two slices of tomato with two slices of onion on top. This is definitely not enough nutrition after walking nearly 12 miles. I go in search of something of more substance and finally settle on spaghetti, which is listed on a board outside our albergue.  I’m told by the stern owner that I have to wait until 6:30pm to have it, even though I just saw her son eating the same meal. At the beginning of this trip, I would have fumed in frustration at the lack of customer service. But somewhere along the Way, I have learned acceptance and say, “Thank you. I will return then”.  And I let it go. 

• Beginning Point: Molinaseca 
• Ending Point: Cacabelos
• Daily distance: 14.98 miles (24.1 km)
• Total distance: 346.02 miles (556.87 km)

The smell of smoke wafted into the open window of our albergue. We awake to news that Galicia, the next region we are entering, is ablaze with wild fires. The air outside is thick with smoke that has drifted north.  My mind races with thoughts about how this will impact our hike, how to prepare, what work arounds are possible, etc… I finally pause long enough to realize this is out of my control, to stop flailing about for solutions, to wait and just go with the flow. Rain is expected tomorrow and there are two days until we enter the area. So, I put the fire out of my mind. And as it wanders back into my thoughts throughout the day, I shoo it way. 

Our hike today routes us through Ponferrada, a historic town with a Templar castle built in the 13th century. We stop to take a tour and meet Sergio, a fellow pilgrim from Brazil. He joins us as we wander the impressive castle. We climb up into the towers and overlook the smoke filled city. Sergio tells us about his daughter who just got married. And once again, I learn about another pilgrim’s love for Game of Thrones. The castle is a perfect backdrop to discuss our favorite GOT kings and queens and plots to claim the throne. Who knew an HBO show would be the great uniter among such varied cultures?!?

We continue on into the Bierzo region, a landscape full of vineyards and trees. The sun casts an eerie orange glow about us. The smoke hanging in the air obscures our view  and a hint of mystery fills the air. 

When we arrive at last in Cacabelos, the albergue we selected is quite curious. The rooms are arranged in a horseshoe shape around the outside of a church. The rooms (or as we called them, cells) are just large enough to hold two twin beds with a tiny space between them. It is odd, but adequate to sleep in. 

Laura and I search out some food and happen upon a bar serving pizza. But best of all, the seats are small soft, cozy sofas. One of the things I miss most from home is my couch. I know that may sound odd but I really enjoy snuggling up on my comfy couch. Here I’m either walking, sitting in a hard restaurant chair or laying in bed. The comforts of a cozy chair or sofa are one of those little things you don’t fully appreciate until it is gone. This trip has definitely made me more grateful for those small everyday pleasures we all take for granted. 

• Beginning Point: Rabanal
• Ending Point: Molinaseca
• Daily distance: 15.47 miles (24.9 km)
• Total distance: 331.05 miles (532.77 km)

Our hike today was gorgeous. Up we rose, climbing to the high point of the Camino Frances. The Cruz Ferro, “Iron Cross”, is a tall wooden post crowned with an iron cross. It is said to be an ancient monument, first erected by the Celts, then dedicated to Mercury by the Romans  and later topped by the cross and renamed a Christian site by the 9th century hermit Guacelmo. Pilgrims for centuries have brought a stone from their home, representing their burdens or prayers and left it at the Iron Cross. 

I too have brought a stone from home. It’s one that a friend gave me that has been on my meditation altar at home. It is red and I chose it because it looks like a human heart. Somewhere along my journey, probably from the many times my backpack hit the ground, my heart rock split in two. I think about how apropo that is as I do feel my heart too has opened on this trip. I left my stone at this ancient monument, along with a prayer of gratitude for all the lessons my heart has learned along the Way. 

As we continue on the trail, we pass by the teeny tiny town of Manjarín, population of 1. A man named Tomas lives there and claims to be a modern day Templar, the last of his order. 

A light breeze and cloud cover cooled us most of the day. The golden grass swayed gently and bird calls floated in the air. I stared at the mountains surrounding me in awe. Contemplating their size and age puts my tiny human life in perspective. 

But as I have learned very well by now, those magnificent mountaintop views are followed by knee aching descents. The grade down was sharp and the terrain rough. 

Laura and I had dinner next to the tiny river in Molinaseca.  Afterwards, we rested our weary legs and went to bed early. 







• Starting Point: Murias de Rechivaldo
• Ending Point: Rabanal 
• Daily distance: 9.57 miles (15.4 km)
• Total distance: 315.58 (507.87 km)




The hike into Rabanal was beautiful. We began climbing up into the Cantabrian mountain range. The grade was slight and made for an easy hike. We passed through a couple of small villages on our way up. 

Rabanal was a picturesque mountain village. We checked into Albergue Gualcemo which is run by the UK Cofraternity of St James. They offered an afternoon tea and had the most superb clothes washing station we have encountered thus far. There was a centrifuge to spin out our wet laundry. Let me tell you, hand washing your clothes is hard work!

Our main reason for stopping in Rabanal was to see the vespers service where the local monks perform the Gregorian chant. Unfortunately, the monks left town the day before. However, we did attend a lovely mass in the small chapel. 

It has been a while since we have seen any of the pilgrims we began with in St Jean. I’m afraid we may have fallen behind them. And although we have merged into a new cohort of pilgrims, I sure do miss those faces from the first days and wonder how they all are faring. 

Today we met a father and his 13 year old son from Germany. It is their first day on the Camino. The father completed the Camino back in 2013 and his son begged to do it too. It is now the boy’s fall break from school and his father agreed to the walk from Astorga to Santiago. It is heart warming to see the two together. The son sat outside at the table this evening writing  in his journal and you can see the excitement in his eyes. He talked to me about the United States and seemed disappointed that I wasn’t from Ohio. Apparently, his favorite YouTube stars are from Ohio!

And finally, an update of my blisters: the pharmacist was right on. A full day of letting the skin  breath and my blisters are dry and barely noticeable. I walked all day with no bandage or tape on.  I had no pain or irritation. Apparently, sometimes the best thing to do is nothing. Our bodies are amazing and know how to heal themselves! 





• Starting Point: Astorga
• Ending Point: Murias de Rechivaldo
• Daily distance: 3.17 miles (5.1 km)
• Total distance: 306.01 miles (492.47 km)

Our decision to stay in Astorga an extra half day was well made. The Bishop’s Palace was unique and well worth the visit. The palace was started, though not finished, by Gaudì. The bishop for whom it was intended died and construction stopped. The exterior was whimsical and the interior was enchanting. Many stained glass windows, beautiful arches, artwork, sculptures and nooks invited you to imagine another time. The most captivating room was the chapel, where a white marble Mary sat underneath a brilliant array of colored glass. The basement of the palace held a museum with ancient Roman relics. 

 

Laura had read that Astorga had excellent hot chocolate. So next, we stop inside a bakery and ask the owner if she had hot chocolate. She replied in the affirmative and we order two. Delivered to the table are two huge cups of melted chocolate. This was definitely a case of “lost in translation”. 

Afterwards, we headed to the pharmacy to solicit advice on my blister. The pharmacist indicated that my blister needs to breath and recommended I remove the tape, apply iodine to dry the skin and then cover it with a breathable guaze bandage. I purchased the supplies and then we hiked out of Astorga. 

We walk only a few miles to the tiny town of Murias, which is one of about 40 villages in the region known for their Maragato culture. This group is rumored to be descended from an ancient tribe of red-headed Iberians who served as muleteers between the coast and interior Spain. Laura and I indulge in one of their traditional meals known as “Cocido Maragato”, in which the meat is served first, followed by the greens and then lastly soup.  To begin, we are served an appetizer of pig ear. Although the texture is odd, it was surprisingly rather tasty. The first course is a huge pot of different pork pieces – ribs, ham, sausage, a croquette filled with a gravy. It was delicious. Next, we are served cabbage with chickpeas. A noodle soup followed. Lastly, we were given a light custard dessert. The owner of the restaurant was so gracious and friendly. After dinner, he brought grappa to the table and we finished dinner with shots. In fact, throughout this small village, all the people were so lovely and sweet. They handed out encouragement for our Camino, patted me of the back and gave me extra treats when ordering drinks in the cafe. 

Before going to bed this evening, I treated my feet with the iodine and covered them with the breathable gauze. Fingers crossed my foot is better tomorrow…

• Starting Point: Villavante
• Ending Point: Astorga
• Daily distance: 13.61 miles (21.9 km)
• Total distance: 302.84 miles (487.37 km)

As we set out in the morning, we see the mountains looming. We will begin climbing the foothills today. 

Our first stop is a charming medieval town called Hospital de Órbigo. A long Gothic bridge greets us upon entering the town. To its side is the site of a legendary jousting competition. In 1434, a knight named Don Suero was rejected by his lady love. In his heartbreak, he locked an iron collar around his neck and vowed not to take it off until he defeated 300 knights in jousting competitions. Knights from all over the land came to Hospital to participate and Don Suero completed his vow. He took off the iron collar and made a pilgrimage to Santiago. The bridge is named El Paso Honroso, “the Honorable Pass”, based on this story. 

After Hospital, the rolling hills began.  We make multiple ascents and decents. My blister starts stinging and I limp a bit to relieve the pain. At one point, there was a 6 mile section with no stops. I was hurting and just about ready to take a break in the grass when a most wonderful place appeared – La Casa de Dioses, “The House of Gods”. One of the most joyful parts of the Camino is when you encounter those who feel called to care for pilgrims. It appeared this gentleman had a house on one side and he made a hangout for us pilgrims on the other. He provided fruit, bread, water, juice and, best of all, seats! 

As we reached the top of the hill with a cross, the city of Astorga could be seen below. Astorga is a beautiful town and one of my favorites so far on the trail. It has pleasant squares and a Main Street with lots of shops and restaurants. Oh, and it sure does help that it’s known for its chocolate. There seemed to be a chocolate shop on ever corner. 

Today is a national holiday in Spain. We sit outside in the main plaza and enjoy watching all the families celebrating. The restaurant is serving a special festival menu and we have  iron grilled lamb. The clock tower in town is animated. At each hour and half hour, the boy and girl figures move as they gong the bell. 

Unfortunately, because of the national holiday, the Episcopal Palace we wanted to see and the pharmacy are closed. We decide to adjust our plans and stay in Astorga until midday tomorrow and only hike a half day. 

After dinner, we head back to our albergue where they offer evening prayers and a pilgrims blessing. It is in a small room containing a modest alter. Only six of us pilgrims attend – two are Dutch, two are French and then Laura and I. The priest who led the prayers assigned us each sections of the readings, some in English, some in French. (I don’t believe they had a Dutch translation available).  It was touching to read aloud in my language and then to hear the French readings. I do believe French is one of the most beautiful sounding languages. 

As I began getting ready for bed, I had some intense nausea and stomach pains. The only thing I ate differently than Laura were some anchovies in my salad at dinner. This is the second time I had anchovies on this trip and the second time I had gastric issues. A quick google search confirms it is the likely cause. Duly noted! No more anchovies for me. I go to sleep hoping to feel better in the morning.