The Way to Land's End

• Starting Point: Virgen del Camino (took bus from León)
• Ending Point: Villavante
• Daily distance: 14.54 miles (23.4 km)
• Total distance: 289.23 miles (465.47 km)

In the interest of time and to avoid walking along the interstate, we take a bus from León to the outer edge of its suburbs in Virgen del Camino (4.78 miles). 

As soon as we begin walking, I feel the funk I’ve been in for the last few days lift. I don’t know whether it was the rest day in Leòn, being out in nature or just time, but I feel good. My spirits lift as we walk through a beautiful field full of birds. I see a flock of birds in flight tilt in unison and the underside of their bellies are a waving sea of deep blue. Another bird, black with white wings, dashes from bush to bush. 

While walking Laura and I have a great conversation about how this pilgrimage is an allegory of life. When we first began this journey, there was the excitement of newness and the unknown. It is quite similar to the teenage and young adult years when you are just starting out in life and all the possibilities and opportunities drive you. Then, middle age or the middle of the journey sets upon you.  You become accustomed to the daily routine, repetitive chores and life becomes drudgery. You wonder why the heck am I doing this and what’s the point. You become disillusioned with people and irritable. I have definitely been battling with those feelings over the past week. So what’s next? What’s in store for the last third of my journey and will it also be a reflection of life?

As I mentioned earlier, the word on the trail is the first third of the journey is about the body and the second third is about the mind. The last third of the trail is suppose to be about the spirit. Now, that can mean a lot of different things to different people. Some think of religious life, whether that be Jesus, Buddha or Muhammad. Some think of nature and the Source.  Some think of art and beauty. That beauty could be in song, paint, photography, writing or dance. And then some think of service. Those folks find meaning in helping others through either their vocation or volunteer service. But what it really comes down to is passion. What will drive you, motivate you into your last days? This is different than being motivated by a paycheck or other exterior rewards such as prestige, social status or success. This is a passion that comes from deep within. And this is what I think I should meditate on during the last part of my walk. 

Over the past 3 days, I have hiked in my sandals to allow my blister to heal. Today is my first day back in my boots and after a few miles, I start to feel the area on my heel become irritated again. When we arrive in Villavante I check out my heel and a blister is starting to form again. There is no pharmacy in this town but at the next town, I decide I need to check in to see what they can do for me. 

Dinner tonight is back to the typical pilgrim menu of thin pan fried meat and French fries. And then we get settled into our bunk beds in a room full of about 15 others. The gentleman sleeping on the bottom bunk next to me is from South Korea and he is playing Loretta Lynn songs. As “Stand by Your Man” crooned in the air, I snuggled into my sleeping bag and thought about my Bryan and how much I missed him. And while I still miss home, tonight I feel oddly comfortable being back on the trail and I’m excited to knock out the last part of this journey. 

There was a lot of walking during our rest day in León. We left our backpacks in our room as we set off to explore the city. So you could say in that respect, it was a rest. We began at the Cathedral again, sitting outside on the benches and just staring at its stately beauty. I am infatuated. The large rose window hypothesizes me. 

Next, we enter the attached museum and chapel. No photographs were allowed. The museum contained a wide array of religious art and also an assortment of practical items from ages past. There were Roman coins, knives, swords, pots and bottles. The chapel contained  a sculpture called “Virgen del Camino”, reminiscent of The Pieta by Michaelango. It depicts Mary holding Jesus after the Crucifixion. However, in this version Jesus is face down. As I entered the chapel, I could feel a shift in the atmosphere. The smell of incense lingered in the air and low chandeliers cast a subdued glow on the simple stone arches of the room. A hush filled the air and all eyes were draw to the mother holding her only child in her arms in the center of the alter. It was quite moving. 

Our search for a superb meal was successful at last in León. The first course was a mixed salad with roasted vegetables and squid. The second course was cod with garlic sauce (a speciality of the region), kale and mushrooms. Dessert was a torrija (a kind of French toast with a creamy center) topped with toffee sauce. 

After lunch, we decided to hop aboard a train that takes visitors around the city. Among the sights was the original Roman wall that surrounded the city. We were also given the history of the town and shown it’s major plazas, fountains and statues. 

Towards the end of the day, I realized that although I had enjoyed León, I was itching to get back on the trail. As we say on the Camino, “Ultreia” – which loosely translates to “onward”!

• Beginning Point: El Burgo Ranero
• Ending Point: Mansilla de las Mulas (then León via bus) 
• Daily distance: 11.93 miles (19.2 km)
• Total distance: 274.69 miles (442.07 km)

After dinner last night, I asked both cafes in town what time they opened for breakfast. One stated 7:00 am and one stated 7:15 am. We arrive at 7:20 am and neither are open. Our first section to hike is 8 miles and we need fuel. I am positive I heard “siete” from the one cafe and the other told me in English, so my frustration with Spain’s lackadaisical business hours feels justified. But what is there to do but wait? So we waited until 8 am, returned (they were open) and set out later than planned. As we are exiting town, I know I have a decision to make. I can be irritated about it all day or shake it off. I decide to literally shake it off. I shake my arms and legs out to release the stress and frustration I feel built up from the last two days. I know it’s mostly homesickness. I miss the familiar and comfortable. It becomes draining not understanding the cultural norms and feeling like a duck out of water. Learning to become comfortable with uncertainty is surely one of the lessons here. And apparently, I’m a slow learner. But I’ll keep trying. 

The hike into Mansilla de las Mulas is easy and it’s a beautiful day. The mountains continue to grow closer. 

Today we arrive in León, one of the larger cities of our trip. The guidebook advises catching a bus in the suburb of Mansilla de las Mulas as the path follows along a busy interstate. Since cars are indeed the number one danger on this trip and because we need to make up some time due to a slower than anticipated pace, we pick up the bus, ride in those last 11 miles and check into a hotel in León. We are going to spend two days here to rest and check out the historical points of interest. 

León is a beautiful town. The streets are laid out nicely, the landscaping is pleasing to the eye and the buildings are charming. 

Our first stop is lunch. I select a tomato and roasted red pepper salad with tuna. The roasted red peppers in Spain are superb. 

Our next stop was the León Cathedral, a magnificent gothic building with spectacular stained glass windows. It is easily my favorite Cathedral I’ve seen so far. The colorful light streaming in cast a spell on me. The structure of the building itself was much simpler than others I’ve seen so far in Spain. There were no huge gold retablos or mazes of knaves. But that was all the better to showcase the brilliance of the glass. It was simply stunning. 

Tomorrow is our second rest day.  As I snuggle up in my cozy hotel bed, I soak in the quiet hush of the room and look forward to sleeping in. 

• Beginning Point: Sahagún 
• Ending Point: El Burgo Ranero
• Daily distance:  11.25 miles (18.1km)
• Total distance: 262.76 miles (422.87 km)

Embarking in the cold and darkness was probably not the best decision. But, Laura and I had had it with the city of Sahagún and we were eager to get out of town. Our albergue didn’t offer breakfast and no cafes were open, so we hiked our first 6 miles on an empty stomach. My hiking sandals didn’t offer much comfort from the cold, even with socks on, and my toes were soon numb. In the darkness, I stumble several times and curse under my breath. Usually getting outside lifts my spirits, but it’s dark and I can’t see a damn thing except the few feet my light illuminates. I’m afraid my mood has not improved. 

Dawn is beginning to break. The mountains are growing closer. Within the next week, we will begin climbing our next range. We stop for breakfast in the first little village with see and continue on. 

El Burgo Ranero is a tiny town. Arguments echo inside the albergue as we enter. The staff running it are in their own foul moods. Though I don’t understand all their checking in instructions, I understand their tone and body language. They seemed irritated to start with and our language barrier accentuates it. 

I lay in my bed and stew awhile. I’m frustrated that I can’t seem to get out of this mood. Laura mentions that the courtyard outside is very nice, so I go to check it out. I sit in a reclining chair and watch the Spanish songbirds flit around. Their songs, their markings, their movements are new to me, but the peace in watching them very familiar. I keep a bird feeder back home and enjoy watching the red cardinals and blue jays from my back porch. With a cup of coffee and  surrounded by my collection of succulents, my comfy spot on the outdoor sofa is my happy place in Florida.  For a few moments, I can feel the knots relax inside me. This feels like a little piece of home. 

Laura and I head to dinner at a cafe we saw a flyer for. The waiter greets us with a huge smile and a joke. His movements are comical and he makes silly faces. It’s just the light hearted company I needed. Again, I feel the knots soften. And then, best of all, the waiter delivered  a huge plate of fresh roasted vegetables. 

The woman who had checked us into the albergue earlier was very short and curt. She would barely make eye contact and she actually shouted at an Asian pilgrim who didn’t understand her. We had left our laundry with her and after checking in a couple of times it was still wet. Apparently, the dryer or “secadora” was broken. She used an online translator on her phone to type in a Spanish phrase that returned in English: “I am leaving. I will come back soon and take off your clothes”.   Though the translation was comical, I got the gist. She would be back soon with my clothes. She returned later with a huge smile on her face, said she was sorry for the problems and handed me our still warm, dry clothes. Again, I felt the knots loosen as the realization of her kindness set in. She must have taken our clothes and dried them at her home. 

And as the day ended, one final bit of joy made its way to me. I received a message letting me know that my brother and his wife delivered their little boy today. Welcome to the world, Cole! You are beautiful and your Aunt Shell can’t wait to meet you soon. 

• Starting Point: Ledigos
• Ending Point: Sahagún
• Daily distance: 10.0 miles (16.1 km)
• Total distance: 251.51 miles (404.77 km)

The walk into Sahagún was picture perfect. The moon once again led us towards our destination. A fellow hiker said it perfectly as he passed us, “It’s like we are walking inside a Monet painting”. 

We passed through one small town that appeared to be occupied by hobbits. But we learned that those rooms dug inside the side of the hill are actually used for storing large wine barrels and hams. 

Sahagún turns out to be a fair sized city. It is market day and the streets are full of produce, textiles and clothing. Large crowds of people are spilling over the sidewalks. We weave through trying to find a good meal to eat, but are unsuccessful. We resort to bar food. 

Spain, we need to have a talk. Your breakfasts are meager. Coffee and toast. Maybe a potato tortilla, if I’m lucky. Then us pilgrims walk for hours and arrive in town just as you decide to siesta. Perhaps I could wait out siesta but then you don’t serve dinner until 7 pm at the earliest.  I know I’m just a visitor here, but can you help a pilgrim out? We are hungry for more than pre-packaged microwave pasta or French fries and some thinly sliced fried meat when we arrive from our hike. I get really grouchy when I’m hungry. 

And while we are talking Spain, you could really use some help on the street signs. What good is a map if you don’t hang signs on your street corners? Us pilgrims have walked all day and really don’t want to waste precious energy circling the town lost. 

Sahagún is the geographic half way mark of the Camino. They issue an official half way certificate. Laura and I walked to pick up our certificate, got lost on the way and then find out they are closed for siesta. Oh, did I mention how inconvenient siesta is! We did walk back later (more miles on the feet) to pick it up. 

Did I mention that I’m really grouchy? It appears I misunderstood the whole mind portion of the journey. I thought during my foray into the beauty of the landscape I would be having some mind blowing epiphanies on the meaning of life or some deep thoughts into the nature of the Universe. And while I have indeed had some powerful peaceful moments on the trail,  it appears the mind part has more to do with letting go of all the ways I personally think things should be. And while I know things would be easier on me  if I just let go of the “it should be this way” mindset and go with the flow, I’m still fighting it. I’m still getting grouchy when something isn’t how I want it to be. I know this is something I need to work on and, Lord help me, I’m sure the Camino is not done with me yet! 





• Beginning Point: Carrión de los Condes
• Ending Point: Ledigos
• Daily distance: 14.48 miles (23.3 km)
• Total distance: 241.51 miles (388.67 km)

The moon hung like a suspended silver dollar in the twilight as we departed Carrón de Los Condes this morning. We chased it towards the horizon and watched as the sky changed from deep purple to lavender to periwinkle to light blue  to baby blue, and finally, to bright blue. 

It was a glorious morning, but soon I was feeling defeated or rather “de-feeted”. The trail today included a long stretch of 10 miles with no services…no water, no bathrooms. So, I had to carry extra water which added an extra pound of weight.  My knees could feel ever bit of that extra pound. Then, I could feel my new blister become irritated. First, I stopped and changed into thicker socks. That didn’t seem to help, so I stopped again and changed into my hiking sandals. The sandals provided instant relief but changed my gait, leading to the introduction of a new ache in the hip joint. The long stretch seemed interminable. The straight road ran off to the edge of the horizon, appearing to drop over an edge. There are no buildings in sight and I am loosing faith that I’m getting any closer to the next town. 

Soon, a horse drawn carriage overtakes us. Riding in the back are some fellow pilgrims we know. One shouts out “See you for coffee in 5 minutes”. Huh? Does she know something I don’t? A glimmer of hope sparks in my chest. Within a few minutes we round a slight hill and there sits the town in a shallow valley. I am elated!

We rest for about half an hour and set off on the final 4 mile stretch for the day. My body always seem to throw a tantrum the last couple of miles of the day. Every step takes effort and involuntary moans travel from deep inside my muscles to my mouth. When we eventually get to our room, I collapse into bed and take a two hour nap. This was one of my hardest hiking days yet. 

At dinner I met an interesting woman from Wales who began walking the Camino two years ago and basically hasn’t stopped. She was a business consultant, started walking it to find a new direction in her career but instead found a new way of life. Her dream is to one day open her own albergue on the Camino. 

I loved hearing her story but today I’m struggling with homesickness. The transitory nature of this journey is starting to take its toll. Imagining two years of traveling the Camino without a permanent home, while adventurous and exotic, doesn’t sound appealing. I miss my space. I miss my sofa, my bed and other creature comforts. I miss cooking and sitting on my back porch with a cup of coffee. And I really, really miss my husband, kids and pets. I’m having the time of my life, learning so much about myself and people and life. But I also miss my life, which this trip has caused me to have much more appreciation for. 

• Starting Point: Frómista
• Ending Point: Carrión de los Condes
• Daily distance: 11.62 miles (18.7 km)
• Total distance: 227.03 miles (365.37 km)

The full moon gazed down on us as we exited Frómista before dawn. The expectation for the trail today was not exciting. The guidebook indicated we would mostly follow a gravel trail alongside a highway. But we were pleasantly surprised with the diversions along the way. 

As we were walking through a small town looking for a “café con leche”, Spain’s delicious coffee drink of choice, I spotted a donkey in front of a cafe. Well, I’m not going to pass up visiting with a donkey. It turned out to be a fun albergue with a small cafe attached. Out milling about in the yard were two donkeys, ducks and geese. The donkeys were very friendly and let me pet them. It was quite an interesting cafe and albergue too. The barista sang and you could sleep in a Teepee or a tube! I would have loved to stay there but we needed to put in some more miles. 

Our next stop was a church in Villalcazar that houses the Virgen Blanca, “white virgin”, an image believed by King Alfonso X to perform miracles. 

We then continued down the road. Although we were following a highway, the views alongside were captivating. I once again got lost staring into the horizon and the many shades of blue overhead. 

Our albergue this evening is in a convent. A couple of very kind nuns check us in and escort us to our room. It is a large open room with 12 single beds. 

I remove my socks after I get to my bed to discover that I earned my first blister. It is on my heel in the spot that I thought was a callus, but now it has bubbled up and is quite sore. I apply some Compeed and tape it up. 

Mass was quite touching this evening. This town, Carrión de los Condes, is known for their singing nuns. They sang many of the hymns during mass. Then during the pilgrims blessing, a young nun stood before the gathering and gave a touching speech about pilgrimage. She told us that her order made us each a special gift to take on our journey, a paper star to represent Jesus. Each of us then stepped forward individually, were annointed with oil by a nun, prayed for and handed a paper star. When I stepped forward, I felt quite humbled.  The nun looked into my eyes and there was such kindness, love and peace reflected back at me. To feel so sincerely cared for by a complete stranger made my heart spill over and leak out of my eyes. 

After the blessing, all the pilgrims gathered in front of Santa Maria del Camino. The priest told us that eight centuries of pilgrims had stood before her and that now was our turn. I felt quite emotional when considering all the pilgrims that had gone before me. Each with their own story, their own struggles, their own triumphs. And I was getting to add my little story to theirs. Wow!

• Starting Point: Castrojeriz
• Ending Point: Frómista
• Daily distance:  15.47 miles (24.9 km)
• Total distance: 215.41 (346.67 km)

The hike out of Castrojeriz was grueling. We anticipated a long day and so began at daybreak. Right away there was a very steep ascent. I had to stop every 100 meters or so  to catch my breath. As we rose about the city, the view below was enchanting. Before our very eyes, we watched the mist begin to creep into the slowly awakening city. Before long, the fog overtook and enveloped us as well. We walked for hours in the thick mist. It was so tranquil and soothing. 

Like yesterday, the sun chased the fog away. Vast blue skies were the backdrop to the rest of our day. We hiked through some agricultural fields and then along side infinite fields of brown grass. I got lost gazing into the horizon. The sky and land met in a line that threw off my depth perception.  It’s hard to capture the immense vastness on camera. I probably need a wide angle lense. The openness is indescribable and quite freeing. 

One of my favorite visions today was the below lone tree. Why exactly does the beauty of a lone tree in a vast field capture my heart so completely? 

The walk into Frómista is alongside a man made canal constructed in 1753-1859. The canal is about 200km and mules were used to pull boats down tow paths. The canal is now used for irrigation of the agriculture in the area. 

We are enjoying a private double tonight. After two nights of loud snorers, we decide a few extra euros for the privacy is warranted. We had dinner, showered and relaxed in our room. Laura shared a very interesting history she found on St Teresa of Avila, who came of age and had a ministry close to the area we are in. St Teresa sounds like quite an interesting woman who I would have loved to share a conversation, and from the sounds of it, a laugh with. 

• Starting Point: Hornillos
• Ending Point: Castrojeriz
• Daily distance: 12.43 miles (20 km)
• Total distance: 199.94 miles (321.77 km)

There was a picture on my bedroom wall when I was growing up of a woman on a hilltop looking out at a pale pastel colored sky. The woman’s back was turned so you never saw her face. She wore a big floppy straw hat and a lavender dress with a bow. Something about the picture exuded peace and serenity. During times of stress in my teenage years, the setting of that picture was my “happy place”. I would close my eyes and imagine myself on that hilltop, soaking in the quiet and comfortable aloneness. 

As soon as I entered the Meseta yesterday, that picture sprung to my memory. The hilltops, the expansive skies and the peacefulness transported me to that familiar escape. And again this morning, the light colored skies took me there. 

After walking about a quarter mile, I turned around to look behind me and was amazed by the sight. The clouds were coming down to dance with us today. A mass of white cotton was rolling into the Meseta. 

Before long it overtook us and we walked for miles in white mist. I teased that now we knew why the Meseta turned people into “mist-ics” (cue corny joke drum roll here!). 

It was a magical walk. On down the path, we passed a endless sea of decaying sunflowers, their heads hanging in sadness at the passing of summer. They went on as far as the eye could see. 

As the sun made its ascent, the clouds evaporated from our path. A cool breeze pushed us forward. We caught up with Paul and Katelyn from Australia, a couple we first met in Roncevalles on Day 3 and frequently passed on the trail. They are a sweet couple with smiles always on their faces. The trail weaved us under the arches of St Anton, an old monastery and under trees raining down yellow leaves. As we walked into Castrojeriz, a crumbling castle watched over us. 

Dinner this evening was delicious. It was a four course pilgrim’s meal with noodle soup, cabbage and chickpea stew, a smorgasbord of meats and rice pudding. Our albergue has no bunk beds and I’m looking forward to a good night of sleep. Last night a man with some kind of sleeping disorder kept me awake all night. He did not snore; he barked. But just now as I lay in bed writing this, I am startled by the loud snort from the gentleman across from me. I’m afraid it may be another restless night. 

• Starting Point: Burgos
• Ending Point: Hornillos del Camino
• Daily distance: 12.92 miles (20.8 km)
• Total distance: 187.51 miles (301.77 km)

There is a saying on the trail that the first third of the journey is about the body. And I can attest that my body has been worked over through and through. Yes, I have become intimately familiar with each achy joint of my body, the tight muscles in my calves and the tingly numbness in my worn out toes. But, I have also come to know my body’s strength, vitality and resilience. And I am in amazement of its ability to adapt daily to the conditions I encounter. In the beginning, I honestly wasn’t sure how I was going to do this for 40 days. It is physically the most exhausting thing I’ve ever done. But now I know I can do it….and that is an awesome feeling. 

Now I am entering into the second third of the journey. The word on the trail is that this part of the hike is about the mind. The setting is called the Meseta. It is a central high plateau that comprises 40% of Spain and the elevation ranges from 400-1000m. Many people dread this section because the scenery is repetitive and plain. There are few trees and, during this time of year, open expansives of brown grass and dirt. During other times of the year, there is wheat as far as the eye can see.  The Meseta is known to have inspired spiritual mystics such as St Teresa of Avila and St John of the Cross. 

I was honestly a bit nervous for this stage. 

Did I really want to delve that deeply into my mind? Maybe those mystics weren’t really enlightened but mad?!? Or perhaps my mind is not so deep and I would just teeter on the edge of ennui and boredom for days. 

Well, it’s only day one on the Meseta but I can tell you that so far I am pleasantly surprised. The beauty of it is unique. The contrast between the dull landscape and the expansive sky is striking. Several times today I lost all sense of time while staring at the sky. It is mesmerizing. The clouds dance in front on you in their own ballet. I twirled in a circle and the 360 degree panorama made me feel so open and free. Apparently, wide open spaces make my heart happy. 

The temperatures are expected to soar over the next two days, so we will see how I feel about the Meseta tomorrow. It’s nickname is “The Spanish Frying Pan”, after all. But today was visually stunning and good medicine for the soul.